|Day 4 – April 7||Portreath to Perranporth|
|Weather: Sunny and windy||B&B: Chy an Kerensa Guest House (£29)|
|Departed: 09:30 Arrived: 15:00||Walked: 4h 28m Rested: 1 hr 15m|
|Distance Today: 12.9 mi / 20.7 km||Total Distance: 54.8 mi / 88.3 km|
|% Complete: ~ 4.99%||Pint of the Day: Driftwood Spars Bawden Rocks|
|GPS Track for: Day 4|
And so it was that at exactly 1:43pm today I was forced to slather on sunscreen to protect myself from the powerful Cornish sun. What a difference a day makes.
There was still some cloud around when I left the Cliff House B&B in Portreath. This was a great little B&B and one that I wouldn’t hesitate staying in again. When I arrived yesterday afternoon I was cold and wet and I took full advantage of the two heaters in my large room (and the excellent shower).
Today’s walk was a great one. As I already mentioned the weather was fantastic, despite the relentless wind that continued throughout the day. The footpath, most of which was cut into the cliff face, was in excellent shape and I’ll let the photos speak to the views.
There were quite a few steep climbs today and they began immediately when I climbed out of Portreath to rejoin the coast path. According to my Everytrail page the ascents and descents were over 3000 feet each. These included Chapel Porth, Porth Towan and the unforgettable Sally’s Bottom.
It was just after 11am when I descended into Porthtowan and I decided I would follow the Doctor’s* orders and stop for a mandatory tea break. Exactly 15 minutes later I was on the move and heading back up the cliff face. The walk between Porthtowan and Trevaunance Cove was particularly nice and was topped off with a visit to an excellent pub – the Driftwood Spars. They offer an amazing 9 real ales on tap including three of their own brews: Blue Hills Bitter, Trouble & Strife and Bawden Rocks. I enjoyed a pint of the latter in a very crowded lower bar – it’s Wednesday afternoon – don’t these people have jobs to go to! 🙂
Sections of the last 4 miles into Perranporth hugged the cliff face more than usual. If you had a fear of heights there are a few places that might give you cause for concern, especially if you had to contend with a strong off-shore breeze (fortunately I was dealing with an on-shore wind). I took my time as I knew I would be arriving at my destination by mid-afternoon and in fact I was in my B&B by 3:30pm.
My post-walk routine is falling into place and I suspect that within a week or two I will be able to shave some time off what currently takes a couple of hours. The routine includes: shower, wash clothes in sink and hang to dry, recharge any batteries that are getting low, cup of tea, download tracks from GPS and post to Everytrail, download photos from camera and upload to MobileMe account, cup of tea, write, edit and post blog, review route for tomorrow and check pubs for tomorrow. At some point I also need to find some grub and carve out an hour of downtime.
Perranporth doesn’t seem to have any great pubs on offer so I decided to have my first fish supper of my trip – Haddock, chips and mushy peas. Now it’s time to carve out that hour of downtime.
* the doctor in this instance is a work colleague.