2016 Walk 3 – Goathland to Beck Hole

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“The Tarn” near Moss Rigg, Goathland

After my walk from Llangollen I decided a new pair of walking shoes was in order and the next day was spent in Shrewsbury looking for suitable replacements. I was hoping to find a pair of Eccos but only one shop carried them and only women’s shoes. After visiting several shops I settled on a pair of New Balance hiking shoes, the most comfortable Gortex-lined pair I could find. My Eccos were donated to a Shoe Bank in Ellesmere.

The following day I headed to Goathland in the North York Moors, a full-day journey involving two buses and three trains. Goathland is one of the “old haunts” I referred to in a previous post. Back in the late 90’s I operated a small group walking tour company and the North York Moors was one of my favourite destinations. It’s been 17 years since my last visit and I’m pleased to report very little has changed.

I arrived late in the afternoon and headed up onto Moss Rigg to stretch my legs. The light was wonderful but a brisk northerly wind meant it was downright chilly. Half an hour next to the coal fire in the lounge of my b&b was in order after my short walk.

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The Birch Hall Inn in Beck Hole

The forecast for tomorrow afternoon was grim and so I decided to make best use of the morning. I headed out immediately after an exceptionally good breakfast and managed to get a couple of miles in before digging out the rain gear. I looped back to Goathland and headed down to Mallyan Spout where I encountered a group of 20+ walkers. I followed the beck for a short while before seeking refuge in one of my favourite pubs in Britain, the Birch Hall Inn in Beck Hole.

The Birch Hall Inn’s public bar is tiny, about 12′ by 12′, and hasn’t changed in 17 years. I suspect very little has in half a century. It’s perfectly suited for muddy walkers with (or without) soggy dogs and its close confines guarantee you’ll soon be part of the conversation. I met a British couple who were amazed to learn I was from Victoria. For the past 12 years they had escorted caravan groups through British Columbia and knew my city well.

After enjoying good beer and good conversation I returned to Goathland via the ‘Beckhole Incline‘, a one-mile path following a short-lived mid-19th century horse-drawn railway. A visit to the Goathland War Memorial rounded out a short but enjoyable walk in the North York Moors.

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2016 Walk 2 – Llangollen to Ellesmere

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A bright but showery start to the walk

I awoke to bright blue skies and the forecast suggested a fine day with a chance of a shower near noon. In the time it took to eat breakfast the forecast had deteriorated to showery weather with the chance of a break near noon. Nevertheless it was lovely and bright when I hefted my fully loaded pack onto my back and headed up the hill to join the Llangollen Canal.

A 10k run was underway and marshalls were positioned along canal although I never saw any runners in the 3k stretch that paralleled my route. A handful of narrowboats were tied up alongside however most were moored at a purpose-built facility next to the winding hole a couple hundred meters in the opposite direction. I remember the winding hole well as this is where I turned my 69-foot narrowboat around for the return journey to Middlewich in 2003. It looks nothing like it did then but addition of a dozen or two slips no doubt helps to reduce the congestion in the busy summer months.

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Canalside Latte

Within ten minutes of starting out a heavy shower fell from what appeared to be clear and sunny skies. The showers continued on and off but I made good progress through Trevor and then on to Pontcysyllte where I crossed Thomas Telford’s magnificent aqueduct, and World Heritage Site, towering 126 feet above the River Dee. On the other side a narrowboat cafe with a very posh coffee machine built into the bow was tempting but I decided to push on.

Once past Pontcysyllte the towpath was very peaceful and I made good progress. Much of this section was covered by overhanging trees which offered some protection from the increasingly heavy showers. I’d been avoiding putting on my wet weather gear but with the clouds getting darker I decided to take advantage of the shelter and get suited up.

I passed through the Whitehouses tunnel at the same time as half a dozen kids in kayaks but from the din I thought I was approaching the Spanish Armada. They too suffered from some questionable navigation and spent most of the time careening into the tunnel walls at right angles. Nevertheless they seemed to be having a lot of fun doing it.

I carried on to Chirk by which time my right knee was giving me grief, so much so that I thought I’d be unable to carry on. I considered using a bus but being Sunday there were none and so I opted for a cup of tea at the second narrowboat cafe encountered this morning. I sat in the drizzly weather next to the Chirck aquaduct and chatted with three English walkers that had walked from Llangollen and were taking a break before heading back.

After my break I decided to carry on to the next town. My knee flared up now and then however I was able to maintain a brisk hobble for most of the day. By noon the weather seemed to be improving and so I was able to shed the Gortex and enjoy the occasional sunny break.

The towpath wound it’s way out of the hills and into the lovely Shropshire countryside. In my opinion Shropshire is one of Britain’s best kept walking secrets. The Llangollen Canal towpath eventually becomes part of the Shropshire Way which in places was a bit rough underfoot but wonderful for wildlife viewing, and in unexpected ways too. I met an older gentleman walking his barn owl, as you do. The owl was perched on his arm and he commented that he had a messy face because he was a messy eater. He was a wonderful looking bird despite the messy face.

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A frustrated Heron sharing the towpath with a relentless walker

Marton Locks were the first I encountered on my walk and although they are few and far between on this side of Ellesmere that is certainly not the case on the other. If I remember correctly we navigated through 25 locks on our trip from Middlewich to Llangollen in 2003 and of course the same again on our return trip. Today’s walk featured nearly 40 bridges and a single Heron who, like the sheep I encountered yesterday, I repeatedly drove forward for at least a mile.

Another shower rolled in but it would prove to be the last one of the day. By the time I reached Frankton Lock, at the junction with the Montgomery canal, it looked as though the sun was here to stay. I took a brief break on a bench and then continued on, sticking to the towpath rather than following the Shropshire Way across the fields. Judging from the towpath very few people did so. I did however walk by a narrowboat that had just moored for the day. It contained two friendly couples who offered me a cold beer and canalside chat. Things had warmed up considerably and so the beer and conversation were just what the doctor ordered.

I continued on towards Ellesmere which eventually rejoined the Shropshire Way. I remember cruising this stretch back in 2003 and the rural views are truly magnificent. By this point in my walk I had covered nearly 20 miles and so despite the beautiful scenery I was greatly relieved when I hobbled in to Ellesmere.

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Mereside Farm in Ellesmere

I was staying at Mereside Farm just on the edge of town which provides excellent self-catering accommodation for singles. I stopped into town for some groceries and got some helpful instructions from proprietor Nicky and a local I met along the way. Before long I was resting comfortably in my room in a converted stable block. The former occupants were in a field only meters away and I wasn’t sure how they felt about this. However I was far too exhausted to give it more than a passing thought.

My knee was feeling better but I’ve decided to invest in some new walking shoes and so tomorrow will be spent in Shrewsbury looking for replacements.